Quick answer: Appliqué embroidery is a technique where a piece of fabric is cut into a shape and stitched onto a larger base fabric to create a design. The edges are secured with stitches such as satin stitch, blanket stitch or zigzag, which also stop them from fraying. Appliqué can be done by hand or by machine, and it's used for varsity letters, patches, quilts, kids' clothing and home décor because it covers large areas quickly with bold color and texture.
The word appliqué comes from French and means "applied." Instead of filling a whole shape with thousands of stitches, you apply fabric and only stitch the edges. Here's how appliqué embroidery works, the main types and when to use it.
How Appliqué Embroidery Works
- A shape is cut from appliqué fabric, such as cotton, felt or twill.
- The shape is placed on the base fabric, often held with fusible web, pins or a tack-down stitch.
- The edges are stitched down with a decorative or covering stitch.
- Details such as faces, outlines or lettering are embroidered on top.
Types of Appliqué
- Raw-edge appliqué: edges are left unturned and stitched close to the edge. Light fraying gives a soft, casual look.
- Turned-edge (needle-turn) appliqué: edges are folded under and hand-stitched with tiny invisible stitches for a clean finish. Common in quilting.
- Satin-stitch appliqué: a dense satin border covers the raw edge completely. This is the classic machine embroidery look.
- Blanket-stitch appliqué: a decorative blanket stitch around the edge, popular for felt and folk-style designs.
- Reverse appliqué: layers of fabric are stacked and the top layer is cut away to reveal the fabric underneath.
Appliqué vs. Regular Embroidery
- Speed: appliqué covers large areas with far fewer stitches.
- Texture: fabric adds dimension and a soft, tactile feel.
- Flexibility: you can mix fabrics like denim, glitter vinyl, fleece or plaid.
- Weight: big appliqué designs are lighter and more flexible than dense fill embroidery.
Where Appliqué Is Used
- Varsity and Greek letters on sweatshirts
- Monogrammed towels and baby items
- Quilts and wall hangings
- Patches and badges
- Holiday décor, pillows and tote bags
Simple Hand Appliqué: Step by Step
- Iron fusible web onto the back of your appliqué fabric.
- Trace and cut out your shape.
- Peel off the paper backing and iron the shape onto the base fabric.
- Stitch around the edge with blanket stitch or a small whip stitch.
- Add embroidered details on top.
Using a machine instead? Follow our guide to appliqué on an embroidery machine.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between appliqué and patchwork?
Appliqué places fabric shapes on top of a base fabric. Patchwork sews pieces of fabric together edge to edge to make a larger piece.
What fabric is best for appliqué?
Tightly woven cotton, felt and twill are easiest. Felt doesn't fray, so it's ideal for beginners.
Does appliqué need stabilizer?
For machine appliqué, yes. Stabilizer keeps the base fabric from puckering under dense edge stitches.
Is appliqué durable?
Yes. With a secure edge stitch and quality fabric, appliqué holds up well to regular washing.
Try Appliqué on Your Next Project
Appliqué is a fun way to add bold color fast. Practice the edge stitches in our guides to blanket stitch and satin stitch.
See embroidery in action on our embroidered hoodies and sweatshirts.
