Quick answer: To backstitch, bring the needle up from the back of the fabric one stitch length ahead of your starting point. Then insert it back down at the start of the line, working "backward". Bring the needle up again one stitch length ahead of the last stitch and go back down into the end of the previous stitch. Repeat to form a solid, unbroken line. Keep every stitch the same length, about ⅛ inch (3 mm).
Backstitch is the first stitch most embroiderers learn, and for good reason. It creates clean, continuous lines that are perfect for outlines, lettering, stems and fine details. Here's how to do backstitch by hand step by step, plus tips for smooth curves and neat corners.
What Is Backstitch Used For?
- Outlining shapes and designs
- Embroidered lettering, names and quotes
- Flower stems, vines and fine details
- Outlines in cross stitch patterns
- Strong hand-sewn seams, since backstitch is one of the strongest hand-sewing stitches
What You Need
- Fabric such as cotton or linen
- An embroidery hoop
- Six-strand embroidery floss (use 2–3 strands for most lines)
- An embroidery needle
- A water-soluble pen to draw your line
How to Backstitch: Step by Step
- Draw your line. Trace your design onto the fabric and hoop it until it's firm.
- Start the first stitch. Bring the needle up from the back at point A, one stitch length from the start of the line.
- Go backward. Insert the needle down at the very start of the line (point B). This makes your first stitch.
- Move ahead. Bring the needle up at point C, one stitch length ahead of point A.
- Close the gap. Insert the needle back down at point A, sharing the same hole as the end of the first stitch.
- Repeat. Keep coming up one stitch ahead and going back into the end of the last stitch until the line is complete.
- Finish. On the back, weave the thread under a few stitches and trim.
How Do You Backstitch Around Curves?
Make your stitches shorter on curves, about half the length you use on straight lines. Short stitches follow the curve smoothly. Long stitches create sharp, jagged angles. On tight curves such as the loops of cursive letters, use stitches as small as 1/16 inch (1.5 mm).
Backstitch Variations to Try
- Whipped backstitch: wrap a second thread around each stitch without piercing the fabric. It creates a smooth, rope-like line.
- Threaded backstitch: weave a second thread up and down through the stitches for a wavy look.
- Double threaded backstitch: weave two threads in opposite directions to make decorative loops.
- Pekinese stitch: loop a second thread through the backstitch for a braided border.
Backstitch vs. Split Stitch vs. Stem Stitch
All three make lines, but they look different. Backstitch gives a crisp, dotted-to-solid line. Split stitch comes up through the middle of the previous stitch and makes a textured, chain-like line. Stem stitch overlaps stitches to one side and makes a twisted, rope-like line that flows well around curves.
Tips for Neat Backstitch
- Keep stitch length consistent. Mark dots along the line if needed.
- Always go down into the exact same hole as the previous stitch.
- Don't pull too tight, or the fabric will pucker.
- Use fewer strands (1–2) for fine details and more (3–4) for bold outlines.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long should a backstitch be?
About ⅛ inch (3 mm) is a good default for straight lines. Make stitches shorter on curves and for small lettering.
Is backstitch the same as a running stitch?
No. Running stitch leaves gaps between stitches. Backstitch fills those gaps by working back into the previous stitch, which makes a solid line.
Why does my backstitch look uneven?
Uneven stitch lengths, loose fabric, or not sharing holes between stitches are the usual causes. Keep the fabric drum-tight and mark stitch points first.
How many strands should I use for backstitch?
Use 2 strands for most outlines and lettering, 1 strand for fine details, and 3–4 strands for bold lines.
Master the Most Useful Stitch
Once you know backstitch, you can outline almost any design and stitch your own lettering. Next, learn more basic stitches in our beginner guide on how to embroider, or try embroidering letters.
Love the look of stitched details? Browse our embroidered hoodies and sweatshirts.
