Quick answer: To chain stitch, bring the needle up at the start of your line. Insert it back into the same hole and bring the tip out one stitch length ahead, with the thread looped under the needle tip. Pull through gently to form the first loop. Then insert the needle inside that loop, right where the thread came out. Come up one stitch length ahead with the thread under the tip again, and repeat. Anchor the last loop with a tiny stitch.
Chain stitch creates a bold, textured line of linked loops that looks like a chain. It's great for outlines, lettering, stems and even filling shapes. It was used in traditional embroidery for centuries and is now popular in vintage-style chain stitch embroidery on jackets and hats. Here's how to do it.
What Is Chain Stitch Used For?
- Bold outlines and borders
- Cursive lettering and names
- Stems, vines and swirls
- Filling shapes with rows or spirals of chain stitch
- Decorative details on clothing, bags and home décor
What You Need
- Fabric in an embroidery hoop
- Embroidery floss (3–4 strands for a clear chain)
- An embroidery needle
- A water-soluble pen to mark your line
How to Chain Stitch: Step by Step
- Start the line. Bring the needle up from the back at the beginning of your line (point A).
- Make the loop. Insert the needle back down into the same hole (point A). Bring the tip out one stitch length along the line (point B), but don't pull through yet.
- Catch the thread. Wrap the working thread under the needle tip from left to right.
- Pull through. Gently pull the needle through until the loop lies flat. Don't pull too tight, or the loop will close.
- Continue the chain. Insert the needle inside the loop at point B. Come up one stitch length ahead, loop the thread under the tip, and pull through.
- Anchor the end. After the last loop, make a tiny straight stitch over the end of the loop to hold it in place.
How Do You Make Chain Stitch Even?
Mark evenly spaced dots along your line and keep each loop the same length. Pull each stitch with the same gentle tension so the loops stay open and round. On curves, make the loops slightly smaller.
Chain Stitch Variations
- Detached chain (lazy daisy): a single chain loop anchored at the tip. It's perfect for petals and leaves.
- Open chain stitch: wide, ladder-like loops.
- Twisted chain stitch: each loop is twisted for a rope-like texture.
- Whipped chain stitch: a second thread wraps over the chain for a raised, corded line.
- Reverse chain stitch: worked backward by sliding the needle under the previous loop, which is easier for some beginners.
Hand Chain Stitch vs. Machine Chain Stitch
Hand chain stitch is worked with a needle as described above. Machine chain stitch embroidery is made on vintage chain stitch machines, such as the Cornely, which use a hook to create continuous loops. It gives the flowing, retro lettering often seen on bowling shirts and varsity jackets.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is chain stitch good for beginners?
Yes. After backstitch, chain stitch is one of the easiest stitches to learn and it covers lines quickly.
How many strands should I use for chain stitch?
Use 3–4 strands for most projects, 2 strands for delicate lines, and 6 strands for bold outlines.
How do you end a chain stitch?
Make a small straight stitch over the far end of the last loop, then secure the thread on the back.
What is the difference between chain stitch and lazy daisy?
A lazy daisy is a single, detached chain loop. Chain stitch links many loops together into a continuous line.
Start Stitching Chains
Chain stitch is a versatile, beginner-friendly stitch that adds bold texture to any design. Practice a straight line first, then try curves, lettering and lazy daisy flowers. Learn more basics in our guides to backstitch and French knots.
Prefer finished pieces? See our embroidered T-shirts and embroidered sweatshirts.
